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After last weekend's excess, decided to have a quiet one this w/e and stay at home concentrating on my sewing. However yesterday was somewhat frustrating, so near and yet so far, having real problems finishing off my oriental jacket. Probably the first time I have ever been on the verge of tears from sewing, as I couldn't get my head round what to do and was worried about messing it all up. :-(
Lesson learned - fabric given as birthday present equals far too much pressure!
Anyway, I have nearly come to the end, barring a couple of dilemmas:

Fastenings / trimming - the original plan was to have a black venice lace trim down the front and around the collar (yes, that might sound odd but it was inspired by a cheongsam dress at the V&A with the same thing) and then frog fastenings.
Now undecided about the black lace trim and also the frog fastenings won't work with the style of closure, making them off centre from the collar. The pattern suggests fabric covered buttons but I want something to contrast the fabric, given that I have the contrasting brown bias binding on the sleeves.
More seriously - can't get the bloody hem to work! :-( the pattern instructions were awful and I couldn't work out how to hem the back pleat. However, finally got there (I think!) but then i pinned the lining hem in place against the main fabric..... looks fine hanging up (as you can see here) but as soon as I wear it the fabric gets all bunched up around the bottom edge. Can't work out where on earth the lining is meant to be pinned to and the instructions are useless.
In the end, decided to put the jacket on hold and will take it back to Cardiff at the weekend to ask my mum for help!
In the meanwhile, here are some progress pics. On the plus side, really happy with how the sleeves worked out, especially as i drafted them myself!
the mock-up

Lining complete (ie the second mock-up!)

being brave and cutting the fabric (didn't manage to match up the design as much as I'd have liked but it worked out well at the front and the sleeves at least)

the sleeve
with bias binding

the sleeve is just stitched together in four separate points along this outside seam, creating a slashed effect. One little change I had to make too was to make it less puffy at the top, stupidly didn't think of that when drafting the sleeve pattern from the original, so had to take it off the jacket to trim down and reattach!
Back view of jacket before sleeves attached. Can't really see the pleat properly from here, will best be seen once there is a final picture of me wearing it!

Next project to tackle is my military victorian jacket, although currently suffering a slight crisis of confidence following this weekend's stress. :-(
Lesson learned - fabric given as birthday present equals far too much pressure!
Anyway, I have nearly come to the end, barring a couple of dilemmas:

Fastenings / trimming - the original plan was to have a black venice lace trim down the front and around the collar (yes, that might sound odd but it was inspired by a cheongsam dress at the V&A with the same thing) and then frog fastenings.
Now undecided about the black lace trim and also the frog fastenings won't work with the style of closure, making them off centre from the collar. The pattern suggests fabric covered buttons but I want something to contrast the fabric, given that I have the contrasting brown bias binding on the sleeves.
More seriously - can't get the bloody hem to work! :-( the pattern instructions were awful and I couldn't work out how to hem the back pleat. However, finally got there (I think!) but then i pinned the lining hem in place against the main fabric..... looks fine hanging up (as you can see here) but as soon as I wear it the fabric gets all bunched up around the bottom edge. Can't work out where on earth the lining is meant to be pinned to and the instructions are useless.
In the end, decided to put the jacket on hold and will take it back to Cardiff at the weekend to ask my mum for help!
In the meanwhile, here are some progress pics. On the plus side, really happy with how the sleeves worked out, especially as i drafted them myself!
the mock-up


Lining complete (ie the second mock-up!)

being brave and cutting the fabric (didn't manage to match up the design as much as I'd have liked but it worked out well at the front and the sleeves at least)


the sleeve

with bias binding


the sleeve is just stitched together in four separate points along this outside seam, creating a slashed effect. One little change I had to make too was to make it less puffy at the top, stupidly didn't think of that when drafting the sleeve pattern from the original, so had to take it off the jacket to trim down and reattach!
Back view of jacket before sleeves attached. Can't really see the pleat properly from here, will best be seen once there is a final picture of me wearing it!

Next project to tackle is my military victorian jacket, although currently suffering a slight crisis of confidence following this weekend's stress. :-(