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At just after 5am, we were picked up by Tanya and Ralph of Go Well Tours to take us to Aztompa cemetery. We’d spoken online about my experience last time, that I felt uncomfortable being there at night with the coachloads of tourists, many of whom paid little respect to where they were, and Tanya suggested it would be better to go there for the sunrise, so here we were!
We got there just as sun was breaking, so got to experience this beautiful place, memorials adorned with massive candles in the dusk and then in more detail as it got lighter. Many local residents had completed their vigils and were leaving for the day, and those who still remained had evidently been at the mezcal all night. It was friendly and jovial, and a lovely way to experience this beautiful cemetery.
Tanya had prepared breakfast, and we sat on the steps at the cemetery entrance with our delicious morning picnic. We then got back into the van to continue uphill to Aztompa archaeological site. Not as complete or as well known as the neighbouring Monte Alban, it benefited however in the lack of visitors and stunning views of the hills around and Oaxaca below. It truly was a special experience.
We were dropped back to our hotels, Rob and I saying our goodbyes to Tanya and Ralph, talking about whether we will be back a third time. We spent a couple of hours at the hotel, Rob snoozing on one of the pool loungers and me going for a swim.
For the evening, we knew the main comparsa was going from Jalatlalco that evening but it turned out to be later than I thought, so instead, Rob and I popped to Jalatlalco for a late lunch at La Terraza del Copal and then a wander around the pretty streets, stopping for icecream of course. We returned to our hotel early evening to apply some Dia De Muertos face make up. As the hairdresser next to our hotel wasn’t doing make-up this year and I was slightly overwhelmed by all the options in town, I had instead bought all the makeup at market the day before and now had to work out how to apply it.
Headed into town to meet with Doreen and Kevin, Doreen was getting her face done by one of the street artists. Once again a tad confused by the comparsa routes – one of our epic fails this time round was missing most of the ad-hoc parades we loved so much last time – we decided to go the safe option of heading to the Plaza de la Danza to watch the performance and then follow them when dancers and giant statues set off to parade. This worked at least, we got a fantastic view and it was great to see, even if it was one of the big, organised events. We followed the parade to the Zocalo, where the crowds got too much and we set off our respective ways to our hotels, with Rob and I deciding on a late night cocktail at Gozobi first. Not such a great experience this time, as the service was pretty terrible when the place was more crowded.
Photos Aztompa https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Aztompa-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza
Jalatlalco and Plaza de la Danza https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Tues-part-2-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza
