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 Day 16 Monday.
mural outside the Ciudadela market

Our final day!  Had breakfast on the hotel roof terrace.  Rob was suffering from a bad stomach, which started the day before and was getting worse, guessing it was from the terrible burger he had at VIPS on Saturday night, so we took it fairly easy for the day.  Packed and checked out of our room, putting luggage in the hotel storage (arrived in Mexico with rucksacks, left with 5 bags, much to the amusement of the hotel Porter!) and walked to La Ciudadela artisan market.  Yes, it’s a tourist trap and we definitely noticed the higher prices this time round, but its still a great way to spend our final pesos.  (still had a tiny bit of space in my luggage for some final gifts and souvenirs!)  Had lunch in the market café, where I first tried tortilla soup on my first visit to Mexico, so I wanted to have that for my final meal here.

Walked back to our hotel.  The plan was to visit the nearby Miguel Lerdo de Tejada library to see the murals, but Rob really wasn’t feeling well, so instead we spent our last hour resting in the hotel lobby and repacking the luggage to fit our final shopping.

Our flight home was that evening, we had another chatty friendly driver to take us to the airport and the journey through airport security and the flight itself all went well.  Very grateful that past me decided to splash out on an upgrade for the journey home, that little bit more space and comfort was needed!

So, my second visit to CDMX.  Last time it was a culture shock and I felt I had only scraped the surface.  It wasn’t the original plan to spend 4 days here this time, originally intending to go to Tepoztlan with just an overnight stop here before going home, and we did feel we were repeating too much of our last holiday. However, it was good to revisit some favourite places and get to others that I didn’t make it to last time. Not sure I love it as a city, but this might have been down to staying in the Centro Historico on a street which just wasn’t pleasant at night.  However it is an incredible, and fascinating city, with so much to see.  Will we visit a third time?  Who knows what the future might bring!

Photos https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-07-Mon-Ciudadela-market-and-journey-home

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 Day 11 Wednesday (2nd October)


Our last day in Oaxaca.  Where had the week gone?  I wasn’t ready to leave and head to smoggy, busy CDMX just yet.  We made the best of our last day though

Started at Santo Domingo where I asked tourist information for how to get to the Xochimilco aqueduct, he also gave me a *tip about going to Jalatlalco in the evening for a comparsa.

We had a look around the artisan market that had now been set up at the end of the Alcala, managing yet more shopping.  (Christmas presents!) and continued up hill to Xochimilco, passing street after street of beautiful murals, skeleton decorations and colourful houses.  This district is so pretty its not real!  The giant aqueduct was a fascinating structure at the end of our walk and then we stopped at a nearby café with pretty roof terrace for lunch – Café El Empedrado.  I had my first enchilada of the holiday, after much enchilada disappointment last time, but this was the enchilada suiza to beat them all! Tasty spiced chicken wrapped in tortillas, covered in a creamy, spicy sauce and lots of cheese on top – food porn for sure.

On the way back we stopped at Xochimilco cemetery (on the advice of the tourist info guy) and this was an interesting place to visit, although we didn’t feel as comfortable here compared to other cemeteries we’d visited, like uninvited guests to a party.  We didn’t stay long and paid our respects to the locals we passed by, then headed back into town.

Dropped shopping at our hotel, had a brief rest and final swim, then headed back to the Panteon General in time for sunset.  This was so different to Friday, packed full of local residents (and visitors like us I’m sure), with a full party atmosphere.  Graves were decorated, candles lit with singers and musicians performing at so many family gatherings.  It was good to go back to see this spot a second time.

Following the tourist information advice, we strolled over to Jalatlalco for a comparsa.  It was a bit of a creepy walk down a dark street, making us wonder if we’d made the right decision, but soon reached the familiar murals and lively atmosphere of the barrio.  *it turns out that the tourist information guy was wrong, and there was no comparsa here, but the streets were full of life and it was good to rest our feet and people watch for a while.

Headed back into town and over to Plaza de la Danza for the final drone “spectacular”.  We stopped at the adjacent Plaza de las Nieves for a final icecream sundae first and then to the main square for the drone show.  This was a great way to finish our final evening in Oaxaca.  Well, not quite finish, it was still early and I fancied a cocktail, however every bar we passed going back to the hotel was full and not letting anyone else in.  We eventually ended up back at Santo Domingo, and chanced the rather posh looking La Rueca, as we could see they had a roof terrace.  It was a bit posh but the lady at reception asked if we minded sitting at the bar, and took us there, where we had attentive service directly from the bar man.  It was a perfect way to finish our time in Oaxaca, with a great Mexican take on an Irish coffee.

 

Xochimilco photos https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-02-Weds-Xochimilco

Evening photos https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-02-Weds-eve-Panteon-General-Jalatlalco-drones
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 Day 10 Tuesday (1st November)

Aztompa cemetery, a grave covered in flowers and candles

At just after 5am, we were picked up by Tanya and Ralph of Go Well Tours to take us to Aztompa cemetery.  We’d spoken online about my experience last time, that I felt uncomfortable being there at night with the coachloads of tourists, many of whom paid little respect to where they were, and Tanya suggested it would be better to go there for the sunrise, so here we were!

We got there just as sun was breaking, so got to experience this beautiful place, memorials adorned with massive candles in the dusk and then in more detail as it got lighter.  Many local residents had completed their vigils and were leaving for the day, and those who still remained had evidently been at the mezcal all night.  It was friendly and jovial, and a lovely way to experience this beautiful cemetery.

Tanya had prepared breakfast, and we sat on the steps at the cemetery entrance with our delicious morning picnic.  We then got back into the van to continue uphill to Aztompa archaeological site.  Not as complete or as well known as the neighbouring Monte Alban, it benefited however in the lack of visitors and stunning views of the hills around and Oaxaca below.  It truly was a special experience.

We were dropped back to our hotels, Rob and I saying our goodbyes to Tanya and Ralph, talking about whether we will be back a third time.  We spent a couple of hours at the hotel, Rob snoozing on one of the pool loungers and me going for a swim.

For the evening, we knew the main comparsa was going from Jalatlalco that evening but it turned out to be later than I thought, so instead, Rob and I popped to Jalatlalco for a late lunch at La Terraza del Copal and then a wander around the pretty streets, stopping for icecream of course.  We returned to our hotel early evening to apply some Dia De Muertos face make up.   As the hairdresser next to our hotel wasn’t doing make-up this year and I was slightly overwhelmed by all the options in town, I had instead bought all the makeup at market the day before and now had to work out how to apply it.

Headed into town to meet with Doreen and Kevin, Doreen was getting her face done by one of the street artists.  Once again a tad confused by the comparsa routes – one of our epic fails this time round was missing most of the ad-hoc parades we loved so much last time – we decided to go the safe option of heading to the Plaza de la Danza to watch the performance and then follow them when dancers and giant statues set off to parade.  This worked at least, we got a fantastic view and it was great to see, even if it was one of the big, organised events.  We followed the parade to the Zocalo, where the crowds got too much and we set off our respective ways to our hotels, with Rob and I deciding on a late night cocktail at Gozobi first.  Not such a great experience this time, as the service was pretty terrible when the place was more crowded.

Photos Aztompa https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Aztompa-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza

Jalatlalco and Plaza de la Danza https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Tues-part-2-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza

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