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At just after 5am, we were picked up by Tanya and Ralph of Go Well Tours to take us to Aztompa cemetery.  We’d spoken online about my experience last time, that I felt uncomfortable being there at night with the coachloads of tourists, many of whom paid little respect to where they were, and Tanya suggested it would be better to go there for the sunrise, so here we were!

We got there just as sun was breaking, so got to experience this beautiful place, memorials adorned with massive candles in the dusk and then in more detail as it got lighter.  Many local residents had completed their vigils and were leaving for the day, and those who still remained had evidently been at the mezcal all night.  It was friendly and jovial, and a lovely way to experience this beautiful cemetery.

Tanya had prepared breakfast, and we sat on the steps at the cemetery entrance with our delicious morning picnic.  We then got back into the van to continue uphill to Aztompa archaeological site.  Not as complete or as well known as the neighbouring Monte Alban, it benefited however in the lack of visitors and stunning views of the hills around and Oaxaca below.  It truly was a special experience.

We were dropped back to our hotels, Rob and I saying our goodbyes to Tanya and Ralph, talking about whether we will be back a third time.  We spent a couple of hours at the hotel, Rob snoozing on one of the pool loungers and me going for a swim.

For the evening, we knew the main comparsa was going from Jalatlalco that evening but it turned out to be later than I thought, so instead, Rob and I popped to Jalatlalco for a late lunch at La Terraza del Copal and then a wander around the pretty streets, stopping for icecream of course.  We returned to our hotel early evening to apply some Dia De Muertos face make up.   As the hairdresser next to our hotel wasn’t doing make-up this year and I was slightly overwhelmed by all the options in town, I had instead bought all the makeup at market the day before and now had to work out how to apply it.

Headed into town to meet with Doreen and Kevin, Doreen was getting her face done by one of the street artists.  Once again a tad confused by the comparsa routes – one of our epic fails this time round was missing most of the ad-hoc parades we loved so much last time – we decided to go the safe option of heading to the Plaza de la Danza to watch the performance and then follow them when dancers and giant statues set off to parade.  This worked at least, we got a fantastic view and it was great to see, even if it was one of the big, organised events.  We followed the parade to the Zocalo, where the crowds got too much and we set off our respective ways to our hotels, with Rob and I deciding on a late night cocktail at Gozobi first.  Not such a great experience this time, as the service was pretty terrible when the place was more crowded.

Photos Aztompa https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Aztompa-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza

Jalatlalco and Plaza de la Danza https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-01-Tues-part-2-Jalatlalco-Plaza-de-la-Danza

We had breakfast at the hotel, located on a pretty sun terrace overlooking the pool.  Rob was feeling a lot better but my stomach was really bad (maybe shouldn’t have had a spicy dish last night when I was already feeling a tad fragile).  However we had booked a cycle ride for that day, so I just had to hope I would make it.

Met with our guide, Ivan, a few blocks south of our hotel.  There were 5 of us all together and once he selected suitable bikes for us all, we started off on the bumpy streets of Oaxaca to the cycle path which would take us to Tule.  It was about 10km to get there and once we got used to the bikes, it was an enjoyable way to travel through the suburbs of Oaxaca.  Tule is a pretty little town/village famous for having the widest tree in the world.  On arrival, we parked up the bikes and went to see the tree – more interesting than I expected, a fascinating old plant with so many interesting formations.  We had lunch at the local market and then set off for the bike ride back.  Although the return route was slightly downhill, a combination of tiredness, sore bum (partly from stomach problems and partly from a bike seat akin to a razor blade!) and everyone else eager to get back, did make the journey very tough and uncomfortable for me.  I guess I could have stopped, but pride wouldn’t let me be the fat unfit one of the group that was holding everyone else up, so I struggled on close to tears at one point. 

When we got back, decided we needed to treat ourselves to icecream, so headed to the Merced Market.  Couldn’t find any icecream there but eventually came across a roadside vendor where we had a cup full of the most delicious tuna icecream.  (tuna icecream isn’t fish, it’s the fruit from the nopal cactus, aka prickly pear, and is officially the tastiest thing on earth).  Headed back to hotel but a combo of getting confused by the grid street system and icecream vendor not quite on the corner shown on the map, I managed to mis-navigate us several blocks in the wrong direction, on a day when the temperature was reaching 28c!  By the time we got back to our hotel, the pool was just what the doctor ordered and we spent the afternoon either in or beside the water.

In the evening we headed to Gozobi rooftop bar, where we’d enjoyed a lovely sunset drink last time, and this time decided to have a meal aswell.  The food was fantastic, they had a wonderful range of artesan beers and we had a great view of the parades passing along the street below.  The sunset was pretty awesome too.

Photos https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/10-28-Tule-cycle-ride-and-Oaxaca

Our last day in Puerto Escondido and we’d still not made it to the beautiful sheltered bays that had drew me to this town.  Decided to start at Playa Carizalillo and took a taxi there.  Described as a hidden bay, its definitely been very much discovered despite the 165 steps to reach it!  Other than the bars lining the edge of the beach, this was very much the tropical beach which was on my wishlist to visit.  We had intended to grab a couple of beach loungers for a few hours but were shocked at the price – pretty much the same as we paid at Villasol but not redeemable against drinks or food! So instead we set up camp on the beach itself, along with another friendly Mexican couple.  They kept an eye on our stuff when we went into the sea – Rob finally came in with me! – and then for the next couple of hours, myself and the other lady continued dipping into the sea, with shrieks of delight when swept off our feet by an unexpected wave!  Again, one had to be careful of the undertow and I was pretty much ankle deep in sand to brace myself at times.  It was awesome to be in the water whilst watching the surfers come towards us (never close enough to be dangerous but enough of a thrill).  We picked the wrong side of the beach to keep in the shade, so as Rob was already starting to resemble a lobster, we sought shelter and lunch at one of the beach bars, taking one of the cheaper tables hidden behind the sunloungers.

We ended up spending the rest of the day here, me going back to dip in the sea, whilst Rob enjoyed the shade of the bar.  Once we’d bought a drink each, there was no hassle to keep replenishing our glasses.  (I will add however, both of us got pretty ill the next couple of days, so I don’t know if the food here was off or if it was us lapsing in hygiene after being sat on the beach and maybe not cleaning hands properly before eating)12

We had seen a few interesting looking cafes up on the high street where our taxi had dropped us off, so we decided to stop there for coffee and cake once we’d had enough of the beach.  This didn’t go quite to plan as the nicest one had actually run out of coffee, and we opted instead for one which was style over substance – the hipster is strong in this part of town.

Went back to our hotel for our final swim in the pool.  For dinner we decided to go back to Sativa, which once again was delicious.  The waitress had some problems with the card terminal though, and it was only once we’d got to Bruja Bar that I noticed we had been overcharged – I would have shrugged off a small amount but this had doubled our bill!  So sadly we had to down our drinks at the bar, to get back to Sativa before they closed.  Thankfully it turned out to be a mistake, she’d just given me the prior customer’s till receipt in the mix-up and she dug out mine from their accounts and all was well.  One thing I have found in Mexico is that 99% of the people are honest, you might get tourist pricing at times but any time there has been a discrepancy, it has been a mistake.  Even times when I accidentally tipped too much, it has been brought to my attention by the waiter.

It was a slightly flat note to end our time in Puerto Escondido, despite it working out, but we had an early start the next day, catching the 12 seater Aerotucan flight to our next destination, so we headed back to our room to finish packing and get an early night.

My first beach holiday and whilst I was sad to leave, 3 days was probably enough for us and I was excited to return to Oaxaca…….

Photos: https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/10-26-Carizalillo-bay-and-final-Pacific-sunset

Awoke to the sound of a marching band – confused!  I assume there must have been a hall behind our hotel where band practice took place, as that was our alarm call for the next few days.  Had breakfast at our hotel – why go elsewhere when you could sit with such a stunning view, accompanied by great coffee and food.

We had no fixed plan for the day, other than to eventually end up at Bachoco beach by 5pm for the turtle release.  Decided to walk to Playa Principal and the main shopping street via the beach.  I was dressed more practically this time, so once we got to Playa Principal and saw families playing in the sea, this was my chance to have my first dip in the Pacific.  I soon learned that even the so-called safe bays the sea still requires utmost respect and the undertow is very different to what I am used to in the UK.  After a few minutes splashing in the waves, I got pulled off my feet by the undertow and then thrown to the ground by the next wave, sending me crashing into the sharply sloping beach.  I emerged covered in sand with a bruised and grazed leg.  Headed to the Adoquin shopping street to find a pharmacy for some antiseptic cream, then decided that the safest place for me would be in a beach club.  It wouldn’t be a holiday without me injuring myself somehow!

Flagged down our first taxi, who took us to Villasol Beach Club on Bachoco Beach, at the opposite side of Puerto Escondido.  This turned out to be a good call.  For the equivalent of £25, we got a day’s use of the loungers, pool and tennis courts (if we wanted to expend energy!), with our own personal waiter and then drinks and food were redeemable against that entry cost.  The view of the beach was absolutely stunning – another stretch not suitable for swimming on, but it ticked my boxes of white sand, palm trees and crashing waves.  I guess this is how other people go on holiday, just sitting on a lounger all day, chilling out.  Fun for a day but for someone who loves to explore, one day was enough, no matter how blissful it was!

At 4.30, we strolled over to the Vive Mar hut ready for the turtle release at 5pm.  All queued up to purchase coconut shell, with which we would transport a little turtle to the start of its big journey.  There was some confusion over the price as it appeared to have increased by 25% that week, but the money goes to a good cause.  I had researched some other turtle release experiences and had been horrified by photos of people handling the babies, so it was reassuring here that they gave us pretty clear instructions on NOT handling them and to limit our selfie-pics.  We named our babies (Clive and Sid) and set them off for their trek across the beach into the sea.  It was an emotional experience, particularly as both of ours fell into a deep footprint in the sand, but they both got out and made it to the lapping waves.

After a final drink at Villasol, our waiter called us a taxi back to our hotel, getting back just in time to catch the sunset from the terrace.  Our meal that evening was at the beautiful Sativa. This was absolutely lovely.  Great drinks (we both had mocktails and they were delicious) and a small but fantastic menu.  I love mahi-mahi fish.

After dinner we popped across the road to the only alternative bar in town. Bruja Bar.  Run by an ex-punk from Detroit, the décor was fab and a fantastic playlist of 90’s rock and indie (the landlord did say the music gets more alternative as the night goes on).  We had an early start the next day, so we only stopped for one drink, promising to return the next day.

https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/10-24-Mon-Villasol-Beach-club-and-turtle-release