vampyresheep

Today we were discovering a new district, which, not going to lie, I was a little nervous about, in case we ended up in a sketchy area.  We took an Uber to the Vasconcelos library, deciding that would be a safe place to start  (turned out we had nothing to worry about all day in this area!).  This building, whilst starting to show its age, is absolutely stunning, like something from Terry Gilliam’s Brazil. Library blocks and walkways seemingly suspended in the air above us, you almost expect them to start shifting around!

Next door was El Chopo market, the reason for our visit.  This is a massive outdoor market for the alternative scene and far from being dangerous, it was absolutely wonderful.  Felt like being back in Camden market as a teenager, stall after stall of clothes, music, ornaments, accessories etc catering for punks, metallers, goths etc.  We spent a lot longer there than intended, and bought a lot!  So much so that we ran out of cash, and had to search for an appropriate place to withdraw some money so that we could buy food and drinks later.  Armed with more cash, we ended up back in the market buying the things we had thought about the first time around!

Eventually dragged ourselves out and continued walking to Santa Maria La Ribera and its beautiful Moorish style bandstand in the park.  Sat here for a while with a drink and just enjoying the ambience.

Next stop was the UNAM Geology museum next to the park.  Sadly it was undergoing major works, so there was no access to the beautiful art nouveau staircase I had gone there for, but one of the staff kindly allowed me to pop behind the barriers to get a better look and a photo.  It was a lovely museum though, very old fashioned with beautiful wooden cabinets – and dinosaurs!

Walked from here to the El Chopo museum but were too tired to go inside so booked an Uber back to the hotel.  The drive back was incredibly busy and we had a grumpy Uber driver.  The only bad one of our trip, he didn’t bother responding to our greetings, sighed and grumbled at the traffic all the way and after we got out, he reported us for not wearing masks!  (we had worn them in cabs up until then, but many didn’t need it and I was too tired to think - and all he had to do was ask!).  Barred from using Uber, I got in touch with their customer service who quickly confirmed that he was in the wrong, its no longer compulsory to wear masks, and reopened my account.  A sour note to end an otherwise fantastic day.

In the evening, the traffic had got even worse.  Reason being was that many roads had been closed to traffic for the Noche de Bicicletas.  If you can’t beat them, join them! Our hotel had bikes to hire, so soon we were out on the streets, cycling through Mexico City on a bike with no lights, no gears, and barely any brakes. 

The event itself was crazy!  1000’s of people on the streets, on bikes, skateboards, rollerskates, walking, with dogs, in Halloween costumes etc.  At some points it was gridlocked with bikes, but the atmosphere remained jovial and our route took us all the way down the Reforma to Chapultepec Park, back via the Revolution Monument and finishing at a little square a couple of blocks from our hotel – Plaza Tlazcoaque.  An absolutely fantastic way to spend an evening in CDMX, even if I was aching so much by the end.

Photos: Ribera and El Chopo https://vampyresheep.smugmug.com/Holidays/2022-Mexico/11-05-Sat-El-Chopo-Ribera-and-night-bike-ride